• South Lake Tahoe Guide

I hope I can take some of the Dark Voodoo power away from the notorious Vortec injection spider. If your reading this then like I did you have been searching the web and under the hood of you GMC Jimmy, S10, Astrovan, Or Chevy Blazer trying to figure out what to do about that crazy injection system in your truck. Well you have a few choices 1. Buy a new spider set for a small fortune. Buy a 'MPFI' retrofit system for about $300.00 3.

South Lake Tahoe Guide

Try Replacing individual injectors or 'poppets' 4. Junk the p.o.s. The front end is falling apart anyway. Or you can 5.

Spend about $16.00-30.00 and a few hours of your time and fix it like I do. This guide explains how to clean/repair leaky or stuck poppet valves/injectors. Only continue if you are sure that your injectors are getting a signal from the ecu and are actuating.

If your not sure, Google it, do your testing and come back. I am not responsible for any kind of damage or injury you may cause yourself or your car. Messing around with a fuel system is dangerous, gasoline leaks can and will cause fire and or explosion. Be Safe, Be Smart, Or be Dead. At this point you have pulled the injectors from the fuel meter body, you have your injector reseal kit with all of the o-rings napa and everyone else has them.

Napa's part is. Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit Part Number: BK 735359 Make sure the meter body has no cracks, this can be fixed in a pinch, Google plastic welding with soldering iron. Make sure the black plastic tubing is not cracked or too brittle to be reinstalled.

• EPA-estimated 25 MPG city/31 highway (FWD models). • Read the vehicle owner's manual for important feature limitations and information. • EPA-estimated 18 MPG city/ 27 MPG highway 3.6FWD. Cargo and load capacity limited by weight and distribution. 2013 chevy silverado 2500 owners manual.

They need to be able to hold 60lbs of fuel pressure. If in doubt take an old piece of tubing to the local auto parts store and get some double walled plastic gas line tubing. Ford uses quite a bit of it, as does BMW. You will need the following in addition to your o-ring kit 1. Carb Cleaner 2.Sea Foam in a can 'Deep Creep' 3.

A Pot O Boil'in Water and or a Heat Gun 'Heat gun is faster but water is safer' 4. A Few pairs of needle nose pliers 5.

An air compressor with blow gun. Optional but highly recommended is an ultra sonic jewelry cleaner 'got mine for $30.00 from harbor freight, for the wife.' With this step be patient, you need too heat the black tubing right at the poppet to just the right temp. The safest way to do it is to dip the last inch or two in a pot of boiling water for about a minute.

As soon as you pull the poppet out of the water start to work it out of the tubing with two pairs of pliers. Be very careful not to scratch the poppet or break the hose. Don't squeeze to hard on the poppet or you will crush it an then you might as well buy the MFI kit cuz the cost about $80.00 a piece. You will only have a few second at a time to work the poppet out before it needs to go back in the pot.

Be gentle and it will come out. If you are using a heat gun it only takes a few seconds to work it out, but if you over heat the tubing it will become brittle and increase the chance of making your problem much worse. Great you got that tiny little thing out! Don't lose it!!!! Now it is time to test/ clean it. You might have a better way to do this but the poppet fits perfectly in hole of the rubber piece of my air compressors blow gun.

The poppet is designed to open at about 40lbs of pressure. So l like to start there. Set your regulator to 45lbs. 2.Insert poppet into blow gun nozzle, or ring up some rubber tubing and clamps to hold firmly. The last thing you want is for the poppet to be shot across the garage never to be seen again. Give it a 45lb shot of air. If the poppet opens then obviously it is fairly clean.

Most likely nothing is going to happen. Take the blowgun from its quick connect and fill it with carb cleaner. Give it another shot of air, if nothing crank it up to 60lbs. And try again. When it finally gives way repeat the procedure until you are satisfied that it is clean. Switch to the deep creep and repeat a few more times.'

The deep creep will remove varnish an keep everything from flash rusting.' Now all thats left is getting the poppet back on the hose.

Heat the hose like you did before. Heating only the very end will help you keep from kinking. Slowly press the poppet back in, don't rush it. Let it fully cool and give it a few good tugs to make sure it set. The O-ring set comes with instructions follow them. Make sure you don't have any leaks before you seal up the upper intake manifold!!!

Drive around for 50 or 60 thousand miles and repeat the process and save some hard earned cash. Hi so I had some guy working on my 99 Tahoe 5.7 vortech Tahoe and it seemed he was making it worse. Cause it still wasn't turning on. Well it all started from replacing fuel pump.

I replaced the fuel filter then fuel fuse relay, ignition coil distrubitor rotor spark plugs and Tahoe turns on but only for about 2 seconds then off. Then after him checking the fuel pressure, it catches fire and I quickly got it out. Now I'm here trying to work on it myself. Unsure what he did wrong to it cause I've noticed some screws missing ect.

Can u tell me what u see plz. I had a problem with injector 8 showing as a p0308 misfire. So l replaced everything plugs, wires, distr cap, rotar, ignition coil, and the problem still remained. I took mine to a dealership because I wanted to be absolutely sure it was the injection.

After a quote of 1300 bucks, I decided that I could do the job myself. From the pics below, you can see that the fuel leaked into my intake and was burned leaving a residue. I highly recommend an MFI upgrade as I've noticed an increase in the MPG and HP. I did the replacement following a youtube video and I wanted to give back to the web community. One of the problems I've faced on these units in my shop and the mileage idea is just wrong as I've got 340K miles on my 2000 Astro and so far no repairs other than one fuel pump. One oddball problem with a code P0300 is the manifold pressure/vacuum regulator on the side of the spider.

They will occasionally rupture there and even though the engine starts well cold, once warmed up and restarted, it will be flooded and pop a code like you have. This causes all sorts of thoughts that there's a problem in the ignition system which is an easy primary voltage test. That's usually a red herring. I can't believe that this is such a mystery. Changing batteries and starters is so 'way out in let field that I shudder at the sheer expense of not doing a thorough diagnosis of the real problem first. So my 96 Blazer decided she wasnt going to start one day and after replacing fuel pump relays. Ignition switch.

Spark plugs ans wires. And discovering it does stay on with starting fluid sprayed but only as long as it is being sprayed. Im assuming this is my next attempt. Cleaning the injectors? My truck starts only once for 3 seconds if that then dies and wont fire up again. Just continues to kil my battery from more failed attempts to start. No codes either.

Although temp sensor snd o2 sensor read INC on i/m readiness check. The only that I can tell you is follow the instruction & clean the ports where the injections & use a shop vacuum to clean out the valley.& properly torque the upper plenum the factory part has the sequence torque the bolts 1st pass is (44 lbs in) & 2nd pass is (80 lbs in) if in doubt & you have access to a Snap-on or shop grade scanner tool do a do fuel injector test! & after you're done change the oil & filter & add marvelous mystery oil to gas & oil!

& change fuel filter is cheap & by changing can save the fuel pump! A dirty fuel filter can cause the fuel pump cavitation & will burn up the pump connector & watch youtube videos without dropping the tank on the pickup only there are 2 videos My last tip is Be Safe & take 5 seconds & think before you do something!!

Thanks for the idea of rebuilding the spider.I was about to purchase a new one when I stumbled on to it.I just wanted to share some info on going an extra step. I used my leakdown tester and adapted a piece of 3/8' copper tubing to it to pressure test the poppets. With this I was able to force carb cleaner thru the injector,hose,n poppets. This cleaned them good. This also helped verify that the poppets were only opening after 40 psi n not sooner.I powered up the injectors using a small 12volt power supply. With the help of a stethoscope,i was able to confirm I had no leaks. I hope this is helpful to anyone else with this situation.Heressome pics.